Ask the expert: dry skin

From Clare O’Hanlon, Business Development Director, Boost Beauty Solutions

What constitutes dry skin?

Dry skin is a very common skin type and is used to describe skin that is lacking oil/sebum. As a result of the lack of sebum, dry skin lacks in lipids that it needs to retain its moisture. Dry skin is characterised as feeling rough and can feel tight, flaky and look dull. Dry skin can feel uncomfortable, can be itchy, crack and even be sore. You might naturally have dry skin or develop it from time to time. But it doesn’t just end there, many skin conditions stem from dry skin. Having an impaired barrier function will leave the skin dry as there is no structural wall (ceramides) to keep moisture into the skin. Dry skin is usually harmless, but when it’s not cared for dry skin may lead to eczema – excessive dry skin can lead to the activation of the disease. Also approximately half of all rosacea sufferers have dry skin.

What causes it?

They say vitamin A deficiency may be a reason. This nutrient plays a vital role in skin repair. Without sufficient vitamin A, skin can become inflamed. Causes of dry skin can vary, you can naturally have dry skin or develop it. Here in Ireland, dry skin is very common as the causes of dry skin include indoor heating, long hot baths and showers, medication, weather and overuse or underuse of incorrect skincare products. Over exfoliating the skin with scrubs and acids can dry out the skin, particularly if you are increasing cell turn over but not nourishing the new skin cells. Also, if you have dry skin, there are certain ingredients you can use to help diminish the characteristics. The older we get, usually the drier our skin becomes due to the reduction of oestrogen. This is why menopausal women experience increased dry skin.

What’s the most important product to use?

It has to be a good moisturiser! I know the emphasis in skincare is on serums right now, but unless the serum is oil based like Juliette Armand’s Vitality Dry Oil (€35), you will need to lock it in with a nourishing moisturiser. A moisturiser or cream protects the skin and lubricates at the same time. The basic function is to help treat your skin and prevent more moisture escaping from the Stratum Corneum (outermost layer of the skin). Serums underneath the cream will be a double wham in hydrating the skin and reducing sensitisation. If left untreated, dry skin can sensitise the skin, increase skin irritation and wrinkle formation.

What product formulations can be beneficial?

Rich emollients are a popular choice for dry skin. The skin tends to feel comfortable and hydrated when using richer emollients such as argan, avocado, shea and macadamia oils. Juliette Armand’s Nourishing cream (€45) is a rich nourishing cream for dry/mature skin. Its red microcapsules contain vitamins E and A for an effective cellular nourishment. Its oily texture relieves rough skin texture and reduces wrinkles at the same time.

Are there products/ingredients that aren’t recommended for dry skin?

Ingredients that are not good for dry skin include alcohol-based products, mineral oil, parabens and oil reducing products. Alcohol-based products quickly act as a skin degreaser, which will make the problem worse. Also, any acne prone products are not recommended because acne skin tends to be the opposite to dry skin and be an over production of oil. There are certain oils that are not beneficial to dry skin such as mineral oil as it just clogs the pores and contains little nourishment while paraffin actually damages the skin.

At what point should someone seek advice?

I believe everyone should visit a skin therapist to determine what skin conditions they may have. So many people self-diagnose and end up purchasing the wrong products. A huge mistake clients make is thinking their skin is dry (lacking oil) when really it’s just dehydrated (lacking water). They both have the same characterises yet need different ingredients. When the skin is dehydrated it actually produces more oil to compensate! Dry skin if left untreated, can develop into many other skin conditions, so it is best to seek advice immediately.