How to make jewellery

Ann Chapman from Stonechat Jewellers advises if you’re interested in a new creative outlet

What items would you need in a basic kit? How important are good quality tools?

Tools are key, and you will never have a fully equipped jeweller’s workbench – there are always more useful items you could do with! As a start, I would suggest:

A piercing saw

A small hand torch

A set of pliers

A hammer – there are many different types

A ring mandrel

A hand drill – a Dremel drill is a more economic option than a pendant motor.

It’s a good idea to build up your tool collection slowly, purchasing from reputable suppliers.  Tool manufacturing brands are well established – do ask someone in the know to make sure you’re buying appropriate and quality tools. 

What questions do you need to ask yourself before beginning creating a piece?

Have a think about what you’re making, who will wear it and when – is it something for everyday wear?  Is it for someone who loves big, chunky jewellery, or fine, delicate pieces?  It’s no harm to try to draw it – and drawings don’t have to be detailed or complicated – to work out sizes for different elements of the piece you have in mind.  Think about the steps involved in making the piece in order to keep life as simple as possible!

Starting out, what would be a good project for beginners?

Working step by step is a good idea and allows the creative juices to get going without taking on too much too soon.  Making jewellery that involves beads and wrapping silver wire is an enjoyable way to start and shows you what can be achieved with minimal materials and limited space.  Moving on from that, I would recommend piercing out a simple disc from a sheet of silver to make a pendant – a very understated design can make a contemporary, pared-back necklace that can be worn every day!

Do you need to learn the language of jewellery making, ie, definition of an eye pin, or gauge wire?

I wouldn’t worry too much about specific vocabulary – I’m sure you’ll pick it up along the way.  There are a lot of different tools and detailed terminologies, but they shouldn’t become a stumbling block!

What are the basic skills you would need to master?

One of the very first skills I learnt when training as a goldsmith was piercing, which is cutting or sawing a fine sheet of metal with a small handsaw - it’s trickier than it looks! A good tip is to be relaxed and not grip the saw too firmly - being tense, applying pressure or rushing will make the task more difficult, not easier!

What safety regulations would you have to adhere to?

It’s important to wear protective glasses when doing anything that could involve tiny particles getting into your eyes.  As there are lots of tools of different weights in the workshop, I wouldn’t recommend open toe shoes in case something is dropped by accident.  As with many activities in life, it’s important to work at the right height in order to protect your back.

How important is a dedicated work space?

In an ideal world, we would have dedicated workspaces for all our different activities but, unfortunately, that’s just not practical.  From the point of view of getting started, work within whatever space is available – the kitchen table is better than nothing!  The idea is to have a bit of fun, explore your creativity and disconnect from the day-to-day!  Ultimately, having a workbench does help as it’s at the right height and is shaped in a user-friendly way.

Where can a maker source inspiration?

We are surrounded by inspiration!  It could come from nature, shapes, forms, colours, a couple of words, a story you hear…. My Stepping Stones collection was inspired by our customers – I was so impressed by people’s ability to keep going, through highs and lows.  I wanted to capture that inner strength and focus on how it’s so important to celebrate steps forward in life, no matter how big or small.

Would you recommend a class/online class?

There’s a wide range of courses available online as well as evening, part-time and full-time presential classes. I would recommend looking at the website for the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland (www.dccoi.ie). Also, following designers, makers and goldsmiths on social media allows you to keep a finger on the pulse of the jewellery making world.

How important is it to take risks when jewellery making?

You have to try!  Calculated risks are good and you learn by your mistakes. When working with a more economic metal, if something doesn’t work out, hopefully it won’t be too expensive an exercise and the metal can be reused for something different. It is true that setting extremely precious diamonds or coloured gemstones in 18ct gold or platinum is slightly more nerve wracking, which is why a steady hand is always an asset!

What joy does jewellery making bring to your life?

Jewellery is at the heart of my life!  It’s beautiful, creative, a pleasure to make and wear.  Designing makes me think outside the box, which I love!  Jewellery is very personal and is the starting point for many wonderful conversations with friends, colleagues and customers.  It brings me daily and long-term joy and, through my work and my shop, I am delighted to be able to share this happiness! 

For more information contact shop@stonechatjewellers.ie or see www.stonechatjewellers.ie