Bewitched By Salem
Salem is the world’s unofficial capital of Halloween - and for good reason, writes Domhnall O’Donoghue
Like many others in Ireland, I barely remember what my passport looks like. When desperate for some escapism, I simply call upon my imagination to transport me to some far flung destination. And this October, my imaginary destination will be Salem, the world's unofficial capital of Halloween!
I visited Massachusetts four years ago, a state famed for welcoming many of our Irish ancestors over the centuries - notably the great-grandparents of John F. Kennedy. When I stepped first in its principal city, Boston, I immediately realised why the region had proven attractive to so many immigrants over the years.
While ‘Beantown’, as it’s affectionately known, has much to offer visitors, the highlight of my itinerary was undoubtedly my day trip to nearby Salem - a town that instantly put a spell on me.
LOOKS CAN BE DECEIVING
An hour’s ferry journey from Boston, this charming, picturesque coastal town also doubles as a destination for all things scary and spooky - ironic, considering that its name originates from the Hebrew word for peace. After arriving at the harbour, I was immediately spirited away by the dainty, red-and-green Salem Trolley tour bus - and soon learned why the town has earned such a ghoulish reputation: the Salem Witch Trials. In 1692, north of 200 men and women were accused of practising witchcraft - the Devil's magic. As a result of these baseless claims, 19 innocent people - 14 women and five men - were hanged, and one man was pressed to death. The trials only ended when the then governor’s wife was accused of being a witch herself.
The colony later admitted that the trials were a grave mistake and compensated the families of those convicted – although I imagine that a few dollars were hardly of much use to the deceased. Since then, the shocking story of these trials has become synonymous with paranoia, hysteria and injustice.
As our bus navigated the elegant, architecture-rich streets, I quickly realised that Salem was nothing short of a shrine to the dreadful events from this era. My mind attempted to track the endless tributes dotted throughout the area – for instance, the Salem Witch Museum Witch History Museum, Witch Dungeon Museum and Salem Witch House.
FROM STAGE TO SCREEN
More than 300 years later, these trials have remained in the public consciousness worldwide, helped by the success of Arthur Miller’s seminal play, The Crucible, which immortalised these grisly events on stage. Hollywood has also played its part – episodes of the iconic TV series Bewitched were filmed in Salem. In the town centre, there’s even a beautiful sculpture dedicated to Elizabeth Montgomery, the late actress who played the enchanting Samantha Stevens.
But it doesn’t stop there - Sabrina: The Teenage Witch, Charmed and The Simpsons all found inspiration for witch-themed episodes in Salem. Most significant of all, Hocus Pocus - the cult classic starring Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kathy Najimy - was filmed here.
Aided by the popularity of these titles, one million people visit this dynamic town annually, generating nearly $140 million in tourism spending and supporting 1,000 local jobs. But its busiest period is, understandably, witching season.
Throughout the entire month of October, pumpkins and decorations are strewn across the buildings and streets. Thousands of visitors - dressed up as zombies, pixies and, of course, witches - partake in a host of spook-tacular and interactive events, including magic shows, film screenings, broom-making workshops, tea ‘mournings’, psychic fairs, 'Howl-o-ween' pet parades, séances - and even themed yoga.
ACCEPTANCE, TOLERANCE AND SOCIAL JUSTICE
Something that particularly impressed me during my brief stay here was understanding the town’s true relationship with witches - they are far from just lucrative tourist attractions. Instead, through them, the community emphasises the importance of acceptance, tolerance and social justice - virtues that were sadly not afforded to those women and men during the late 17th Century.
According to the local tourist office, witches “follow various forms of peaceful, Pagan traditions that encompass a variety of spiritual practices that have never involved performing magic or spells with negative intent or worshipping Satan. In fact, witches do not even acknowledge the existence of Satan.”
A WHOLE LOT MORE
Elsewhere, during my whistle-stop visit of Salem, I discovered that the town claims many non-witch attractions. For instance, it is famed for providing the inspiration and setting for the classic novel from local scribe Nathaniel Hawthorn - The House of the Seven Gables.
There was also Chestnut Street to admire, considered one of the most beautiful streets in America - as well as the leafy Willow Park and the trendy wharf, teeming with restaurants and bars.
While I won’t be there in person this October, I will be sure to mount my imaginary broom, cross the Atlantic Ocean and visit this spine-tingling destination in my mind.
You might like to join me – if you dare.