Algarve Active
Norah Casey discovers that Portugal’s Algarve provides the perfect blank canvas for adventure and activity, as more of us crave immersive holidays and individual experiences that reflect our zest for life.
It was my first trip since, well you know what, so like most people who ventured beyond these shores this year I wanted it to be very special. I have always believed in relaxing by doing.
Holidays should be about ‘me time’ and the happiness of discovering new things. Of course, holidays are about relaxing but in our busy world they are also about recalibrating our mental wellbeing and engaging in mood-enhancing activities that reconnect us to the wonders of life.
Being outdoors, breathing in cleaner air and feeling the sun on our face is a great way to reduce stress levels and increase our happiness hormones. Even better when you set up camp next to the sea, swimming in the beautiful clear waters and listening to the ocean waves. This is my utopia.
People are increasingly opting for a holiday that is more about what they do rather than where they are. I’ve been writing about this great coastline of Portugal for many years as a place to fly and flop.
Great food, an annual average of 3000 hours of sunshine and miles of protected beaches make this a great place for all manner of holidays. But this year I wanted something totally different and I discovered a more sporting side to Algarve life. Two significant changes have reimagined this as a destination. The opening of the multi-sports complex The Campus with new daily yoga classes and a whole raft of new walking and cycling trails.
I still wanted to partake in all the great trappings of a holiday but against the backdrop of daily fitness activities for the mind, body and soul. A busy life, urban dwelling and Irish weather aren’t always conducive to outdoor activities so here was my chance. As a travel writer for over two decades I am rarely in one place for too long, so being stationary for two weeks meant I could explore activities and adventure rather than new places.
THE CAMPUS
I was a daily visitor to The Campus, which has revolutionised this corner of Portugal making it a mecca for sports and wellbeing enthusiasts from the most famous professional athletes, to enthusiastic amateurs like myself. When the Irish-owned state-of-the-art sports complex opened, as well as elite facilities it had one distinct advantage, the 2000 acres of the Ria Formosa National Park on its doorstep.
The Campus is more like a wellbeing destination, a fitness complex and a hangout where you could easily spend all day in the gym, playing tennis or padel (addictive), swimming, or lounging around sipping cocktails and enjoying some great food at the resident restaurant, Dano’s, until late into the night.
WALKING & YOGA
The day to day routine of exercising and stretching is something I badly crave in my life. For two weeks in Portugal I was living my dream, up early and energised, walking in beautiful surroundings before the world awoke. I think it takes time to learn what is right for you. For me it is walking, I love the repetition of the movement, how it frees up my mind and allows me to be present in the moment. Seeing the everyday beauty of nature along the Algarve coastline is even more therapeutic. Over the two weeks I discovered some great new walking trails and nothing beats creating the first footprints along the beach at the water’s edge with only the seagulls for company in the early morning. Most days I headed for yoga and meditation classes at The Campus for an hour of stretching and restorative wellbeing sessions.
CYCLING
We hired bikes from The Campus Bike Shed and headed out along some great new cycling trails. Run by Irish woman Michelle O’Donoghue The Bike Shed is a great resource for bike hire and local cycling routes. I love cycling but I rarely brave the Dublin streets. I’ve cycled in the Algarve many times and my favourite trail is out past the bird sanctuary through the preserved wetlands and stunning wildlife of the Ria Fermosa and on out to Faro Island in the early evening. The return is even more spectacular as the sun is setting over the ever-changing landscape of the wetlands.
ALGARVE HOME
I have been a regular at Martinhal Quinta for many years and a big fan of its sister resort at Sagres (there are two others). Both are family friendly but also offering those of us without little ones that longed-for state of holiday serenity. I have stayed in many different villas at Martinhal Quinta from two-bed up to five bed, all with private pools. This time we stayed in a three bed villa which was perfect in every way. I never want to live in a hotel bedroom for a longer holiday. It’s wonderful to have your own front door, living room, kitchen (love making my own cup of tea), garden and pool. The resort has a little supermarket (the Mercado) with all the essentials and a poolside restaurant, O Terraço, for breakfast and lazy lunches when you don’t want to go too far. It is heaven for kids and bliss for families. The Pool Hangout features all manner of water features and slides (and a trampoline), the famous and distinctively Martinhal VW Camper van is parked pool side and kids of all ages are kept busy for hours in the Blue Room which has table tennis, table football, PlayStation and the requisite wi-fi connectivity for teenage surfing. As well as the Raposinhos Kids Club and baby-sitting facilities there is even a baby concierge service where you can pre-book cots and baby baths as well as a host of smaller needs like potties, sterilisers and warmers (great for hassle-free packing).
Martinhal is celebrating its 10th anniversary and has some special Winter breaks and special offers with up to 25 percent discount on rates. Visit martinhal.com
DAY TRIP
Few people who head to this part of the Algarve visit or even know about the incredible remote islands of Armona, Culatra, Farol and Deserta just off the coast and all part of the beautiful Ria Formosa Natural Park. There are great walks and even better swimming on the islands and on the journey out the azure waters and pristine sandbanks are more reminiscent of the Caribbean than the Atlantic. This is one of the highlights of every visit for me, cruising through the salt pans, lagoons and sandbars watching the coastal birds (hundreds in this protected area from egrets to flamingos), visiting the oyster beds and watching local fishermen pulling the lobster pots and collecting clams.
Eating out: What’s New
THE BOLD OCTOPUS
Sister restaurant to The Cheeky Pup, the beach side offering recently opened next to the architectural icon, Restaurant 2 Passos on Praia do Ancão. Our first night there was superb with stunning views of the ocean at sunset and wonderful seafood – including Portuguese specials like Monk Fish Rice and Black Clams. We loved it so much we returned during our stay. The rooftop lounge is a mecca, with great music, cocktails and the best 360 degree views of the ocean. This great buzzy stop is the ‘in place’ right now so book early. Visit theboldoctopus.pt.
UMAMI
UMAMI, Quinta do Lago’s first Asian-fusion restaurant, opened earlier this year. Dishes are cooked on the ‘Robata Grill’ in a stylish contemporary space with incredible sunset views across the Ria Formosa. In the 1980s umami was newly named the fifth basic taste ‘savouriness’ (alongside sweet, sour, salty and bitter). The restaurant takes inspiration from the fishermen of the northern coastal water of Japan, grilling fish over hot coals on their boats and passing it to one another using their oars. The menu includes Asian tapas, sharing plates, sushi and great freshly caught seafood such as cod served with a miso glaze and a black garlic emulsion and king prawn served with yuzu butter. Visit quintadolago.com
Best Restaurants
BOVINO STEAKHOUSE: Great for brilliant and unusual cocktails, wonderful décor, great steaks of course (and wine list to match) and nice atmosphere in the evening.
Visit quintadolago.com.
CASA DO LAGO: Stunning lakeside views, elegant interior (nautical inspired), great for fresh fish and seafood. Lovely service.
Visit quintadolago.com.
MARIA’S RESTAURANT: A must for Sunday lunch (the best), a beach restaurant by day and beach bar by night on Praia do Garrão Poente, breathtaking panoramic ocean views, great buzz and attentive service.
Visit mariasbeachalgarve.com.
GIGIS: Cross the wooden bridge that overlooks the tidal lagoon to get to this classic spot in Quinta do Lago, laid-back heaven for Sunday lunch, the wooden house sits on a stretch of white sand and has been serving lunch on the Algarve for more than 20 years.
Visit quintadolago.com.
THE CHEEKY PUP: A firm favourite on the Quinta scene, run by the same team (Loyola) that run The Bold Octopus and The Bath, The Old Spot, The Lep Inn The Jar and a few other buzzy bars and restaurants in Dublin. Tucked away in the corner of Quinta Shopping, the outside terrace is perfect for night time dining and late afternoon wine stops and food. Visit thecheekypup.com.
PLATINUM DEPARTURE
Remember those days when airline travel was luxurious and stress-free? Well it still can be. This trip was special, the first in a long time, and I wanted every moment to be wonderful. So, we tried out Platinum Services, Dublin Airport’s 24 hour private terminal. It really made the whole journey effortless and elegant. This is a wonderful way to start off a great holiday, worth every penny! The VIP personal service has a private check-in, security and personal suites to relax in. We enjoyed some champagne, ordered breakfast, browsed through the newspapers and completely forgot we were waiting to board a plane.
From the moment we arrived our personal team member minded us, whisked our luggage away and checked us in. When it was time to leave we went through the private security screening (yes just us) and we were chauffeur-driven (in a luxury BMW) to the airplane (you might have seen the selfies!). It was sublime. Treat yourself or someone you love, it was just departure heaven. Rates start from €255 for one passenger but the second person goes for €165. Email platinumservices@dublinairport.com.
A great holiday means you could have it all – the activity, the switch off and all the trappings that make life so enjoyable.
What I find increasingly is that I enjoy those trappings all the more, the great food and wine, good company and lovely surroundings, when my mind is switched off and relaxed. Endorphin releasing activity holidays reach parts of us that often remain dormant in our overly connected lives. Our brains love new experiences and pushing our physical self and overcoming fears can be as much an exploration of the mind as a new destination. At the end of that much longed for break when we return to our everyday lives it always feels much better. if you can say in heartfelt truth: I feel well rested and ready for the next chapter. That’s the best feeling ever.
GETTING THERE
We travelled with Aer Lingus direct from Dublin to Faro. Aer Lingus operates up to three flights weekly to Faro from Dublin as part of the winter schedule. Fares start from €49.99 one-way including taxes and charges. Aer Lingus has extended its ‘Book with Confidence’ policy which allows all customers travelling with the airline to change their travel dates free of charge (note - a fare difference may apply) and as many times as they wish, up to seven days before they travel and up to September 30, 2022. Visit aerlingus.com