The Kitchen without Borders

Refugee food entrepreneurs are at the heart of a social enterprise that has weathered the pandemic storm with a new book celebrating great global cooking with recipes often passed down through the generations

It all started with hummus. When Manal Kahi moved from Lebanon to New York to start a degree at Columbia, she loved exploring the myriad cuisines on offer in the sprawling metropolis, but couldn’t find a decent pot of the classic chickpea and garlic dip for love nor money.

After she started whipping up batches of hummus using a recipe handed down by her Syrian grandmother – batches that were eagerly devoured by friends – Kahi thought she might have spotted a gap in the market.

This was in 2013, says Kahi, in “the midst of the refugee crisis back home in Lebanon, [which] was starting to reach the shores of Europe. So when we started thinking of who could bring better hummus to New York, it kind of made sense to think of Syrian refugees being resettled here.”

Teaming up with older brother Wissam, who had moved to the US previously, the siblings started hatching a plan.

“We thought, ‘Why not make it more global?’ Have recipes from all over the world, have refugees from all over the world bring recipes that are just like hummus – so much better when they’re made with love, made from family recipes versus mass production.”

That’s how Eat Offbeat was born. The catering company was founded in 2015 with an initial investment of $25,000 (around £21,000), secured after entering a competition run by Columbia Business School.

Via a partnership with the International Rescue Committee, the firm hires refugees who have been resettled in New York, mostly amateur chefs (some had restaurants in their home countries), and is currently staffed with a team hailing from Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Senegal, Sri Lanka, Syria and Venezuela.

Kahi is keen to point out that they don’t focus on why their chefs were forced to flee their home country and seek refuge in America: “When someone wants to chat about the past then obviously we’re all ears, but we don’t really go into detail on the traumatic events of why you left or how you left, it’s really secondary.

“Part of our goal, ultimately, is about changing the narrative around refugees by showcasing a different story, a more positive story, where refugees are the chefs, they are the heroes.”

They’ve now launched their first cookbook, which brings together recipes from Eat Offbeat chefs past and present (including granny’s much-loved hummus), and dedicates a page to each chef, talking about their foodie memories from home and how they found their way into the Eat Offbeat kitchen.

“I really hope it does bring across our point of highlighting the chefs for all the value they’re adding to the New York economy, rather than, you know, portraying refugees as people who are relying on charity,” Kahi says. “That’s not necessarily the case. Most of them are entrepreneurs. They’re starting businesses, they’re creating value.”

What are some of the co-founder’s favourite recipes from the book?

“Chef Rachana from Nepal was one of our very first chefs – now she’s moved on, she has her own catering company – she makes an incredible Manchurian cauliflower dish. It’s deep fried and crunchy.

“Another one is chef Shanthi, she’s from Sri Lanka and makes an incredible eggplant curry, called Katarica Curry. It’s fried eggplant and that’s one of my favourite things.”

Previously, companies in New York could order a menu of these and other dishes to cater events, but when the pandemic hit, Eat Offbeat was forced to rapidly rethink its business model.

“Back in March 2020, [because of] Covid, we lost practically 100% of our revenue within a week – we had practically a week to reinvent our business,” Kahi explains.

“So what we did is, we took our bestsellers from catering, we put them in a box and we started delivering those boxes directly to our customers at home, instead of delivering to their office.”

Closing the kitchen was not an option for this team of determined chefs, she says: “I remember at the time, our chefs were [saying], ‘If we’re not here to cook for New York, how are people going to eat?’

“They kind of felt that they had a mission. We like to say we felt like we needed to return the favour to New York for hosting us – with flavour.”

Recipes

Vegetarian biryani recipe

This Middle Eastern take on the spicy Indian dish is made with rice and vermicelli noodles. Created by Iraqi chef Dhuha, this Middle Eastern version of the Indian classic is made with cinnamon-scented rice, vermicelli noodles, potatoes and raisins.

Vegetarian biryani

Ingredients:

(serves 4 – 6)

2tbsp canola oil

150g wheat vermicelli noodles

150g fresh or frozen peas

1 medium carrot, diced

1 medium russet potato, peeled and diced

50g black or golden raisins (or a combination)

200g basmati rice

1 cinnamon stick

1/4tsp ground turmeric

2tsp kosher salt

1tbsp seven spices or biryani spices

1/2tsp ground cardamom

1tsp ground cinnamon

Method:

1. Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the vermicelli and toast until the noodles are golden, about two minutes. Carefully add half a cup (around 120ml) of water to the pot, cover it, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the noodles are tender and the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and set it aside.

2. Heat the remaining one tablespoon of oil in a large non-stick skillet over high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the peas, carrot, and potato and pan-fry until they are tender and starting to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the raisins and cook until they plump and begin to brown, about two minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside.

3. Bring one and a half cups (around 355ml) of water and the rice, cinnamon stick, turmeric, and salt to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Once the water is boiling, cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the rice is cooked, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Whisk together the seven spices, cardamom, and ground cinnamon in a small bowl.

5. Add the vermicelli to the rice, then gently stir in the spices, making sure to evenly incorporate them and coat the grains. Stir in the vegetables and raisins. Serve immediately.

Potato kibbeh recipe

Originating in Iraq, these hand-shaped potato croquettes are stuffed with beef and herbs.

Created by chef Dhuha, this Iraqi recipe uses potatoes and breadcrumbs to create kibbeh, a kind of deep-fried croquette.

Potato kibbeh

Ingredients:

(makes about 16 kibbeh)

4 russet potatoes

2tbsp cornstarch

2tbsp dried breadcrumbs

4tsp kosher salt

2tbsp vegetable oil, plus more for deep-frying

2 medium onions, finely chopped

454g ground beef (80% lean)

1½tsp freshly ground black pepper

150g chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

5tsp seven spices

5tsp ground cumin

Method:

1. Peel the potatoes, cut them into quarters, and place them in a large pot. Add water to cover the potatoes by one inch and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes, then return them to the pot. Add the cornstarch, bread crumbs, and one teaspoon of the salt. Mash the potatoes and stir to incorporate all the ingredients. Set aside.

2. Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a large non-stick pan over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onions and cook until soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Then add the ground beef, the remaining three teaspoons of salt, and the pepper, and cook until the meat is brown and cooked through, another five to 10 minutes.

3. Remove the pan from the heat and let the beef mixture cool slightly. If there’s any excess oil in the pan, drain the beef mixture in a colander to remove the fat, then add the parsley, seven spices, and cumin and stir to combine.

4. Assemble the kibbeh: Take about two tablespoons of the potato mixture and form it into a flat disk in your hand. Place about one tablespoon of the meat filling in the centre. Carefully envelop the filling within the potato shell, sealing the filling inside. Once sealed, gently flatten the sphere into a small disk. Set aside. Kibbeh can be made ahead and frozen, uncooked, for up to a week.

5. To fry the kibbeh, pour the remaining vegetable oil to a depth of at least two inches into a large stockpot or Dutch oven and clip a candy thermometer to the side, making sure it doesn’t touch the bottom. Heat the oil to 375°F over high heat, then lower the heat to medium to maintain that temperature during frying. While the oil is heating up, line a large plate with paper towels.

6. Working in batches and taking care not to overcrowd the pot, slowly lower three or four kibbeh into the oil, using a slotted spoon. Fry the kibbeh until they are deep golden brown, seven to eight minutes. Remove with a mesh strainer and place them on the towel-lined plate to absorb any excess oil. Allow the oil to return to 375°F in between batches, if necessary.

7. Let the kibbeh cool for about 15 minutes. Serve warm.

Nepali pizza recipe

The Italian classic gets a fragrant Asian makeover with this Eat Offbeat flatbread pizza recipe.

Invented by Nepalese chef Rachana, these mini flatbread pizzas are topped with chilli sauce, a tomato and pepper mixture and mozzarella.

Nepali pizza

Ingredients:

(makes 4 – 6)

128g finely ground semolina flour

1tsp kosher salt

1tbsp sugar

1tsp garam masala

1tsp ground cumin

240ml plain yogurt

3tsp olive oil

1 carrot, diced

1 green bell pepper, diced

1 red bell pepper, diced

1 yellow bell pepper, diced

150g diced plum tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes

80ml Maggi Hot & Sweet Tomato Chilli Sauce

1tsp dried oregano

1tsp dried basil

1tsp baking soda

2tbsp unsalted butter

100g grated Parmesan cheese

150g shredded mozzarella cheese

1tbsp chopped spring onion, for garnish

Method:

1. Stir together the semolina, salt, sugar, garam masala, and cumin in a medium mixing bowl. Mix in the yogurt and one cup (about 240ml) of water. When thoroughly incorporated, let the batter rest to hydrate the semolina, at least 20 minutes but no more than one hour.

2. Heat one teaspoon of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the carrot and green, red, and yellow bell peppers and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the tomatoes, and cook until they are tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Mix the Maggi sauce with the oregano and basil in a small bowl and set aside.

4. When the batter is finished resting, stir in the baking soda.

5. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.

6. Heat the remaining two teaspoons of olive oil and half-teaspoon of the butter in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, pour a third to half a cup (about 80-120ml) of the batter into the pan and spread it as thinly as possible into a five to six-inch circle. Once the sides are cooked and the bottom has started to brown, flip the flatbread using a spatula. Cook for two to three minutes on each side, then set the flatbread aside on a prepared sheet pan. Repeat with all the batter, melting half a teaspoon of butter between each batch.

7. Once all the flatbreads are made, begin assembling the pizzas on the sheet pans. Spread a scant tablespoon of the Maggi sauce mixture over the top of each flatbread. Next, sprinkle the Parmesan cheese evenly over the sauce. Finally, top each flatbread with the vegetable mixture and mozzarella cheese.

8. Place the sheet pans in the oven and bake until the cheese is melted and golden, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the chopped scallions (spring onion) and serve immediately.

The Kitchen Without Borders: Recipes And Stories From Refugee And Immigrant Chefs by The Eat Offbeat Chefs, photography by Penny De Los Santos, is published by Workman, priced £18.99.