The Joy of Food

Rory O’Connell, co-founder of the Ballymaloe Cookery School with sister Darina Allen, has served time in some of the world’s top kitchens and the latest of  his long running RTÉ series How to Cook Well is a testament to his affable style and ability to share his cooking skills and advice to budding home chefs. Here he shares his thoughts on our relationship with food during the pandemic and what he is looking forward to most once we open up again. Overleaf are some great recipes from his current series, which sees him partner with wonderful Irish crafts people in each episode. 

Your new series brings great Irish craftspeople into the culinary fold – what inspired you to do that?

I have always been interested in having lovely things on the table to complete the picture of serving a meal and using the work of Irish craftspeople make complete sense to me. I have always felt that the work of a craftsperson is not too far removed from that of a cook. The notion of a potter using local clay and water to form his vessel and then put it into his kiln to “cook” it seems so close to what I do as a cook.  I am mesmerised by the skills and dedication of these makers and adore the fact that their hands have created the physical and emotional impressions on their wares. I also think that trips to The Kilkenny Design Centre in the 1970s with my mother who was very interested in all that was happening there left a lasting impression on me.

What happened workwise (with the cookery school) during the pandemic?

We did a lot of online streaming classes and are now offering a Ballymaloe Cookery School online programme which continues to develop. The farm and gardens continued to grow and produce food which we cook and sell at the farm shop here and send food to local farmers markets and also to the wonderful Neighbour Food hubs around county Cork. 

 What happened to you – has it changed you?

I think the experience definitely changed me. I have always been grateful for my lot in life feeling lucky to have been born into such a lovely family and to live and work in a place that is beautiful, bountiful and peacefull but the pandemic made me realise even more forcefully how being able to walk out of my door and have a garden to potter in and countryside to roam in is such a gift. I also discovered the joy of year round sea swimming and again feel blessed to have had access to that within my five kilometre boundary. I now believe I will make do with less – the environment that surrounds me are my new ‘things’. 

 Your cookbook – The Joy of Food – was perfect for the time we are in – are you working on another?

I have a few ideas for another book in my head but it always takes me quite a while once one book is finished before starting another. My brain needs time to get going again and as I find writing to be quite an emotional experience, I need a little time for a strong theme to evolve. I only feel comfortable writing about something that I feel I really have a good knowledge of – I have a fear of writing something that is substandard.  

How do you think people’s relationship with food has changed over the past year?

Definitely, the way people cook and eat has changed. More families seem to be cooking at home out of necessity as much as anything else but I do believe that there is something of a shift in attitude as we realise that taking a steady and bountiful availability of food for granted is a flawed notion. We have been forced to think about food and its availability and hopefully that has created a greater awareness and appreciation about the wonderful growers and producers working year round to help keep us well fed. I hope that some of us have rediscovered the joy of the table not only as a place to eat but also as a democratic space to commune. 

Do you think these changes will last? 

I hope the people who discovered local food during the pandemic will continue to support their local producers, farmers markets and neighbourhood markets and realise that regardless of the pandemic, this local food system and commerce is core to a sustainable future.

You might well have had a career as an illustrator or a writer – is there another chapter for you that involves new challenges?

I would love to have the opportunity to make a TV series to specifically showcase the work of Ireland's craft makers. 

When we open up again what is the one thing you are looking forward to most?

I am looking forward to hugging people again when we are all vaccinated and happy and safe to do that. I will hug until my ribs hurt and I want to dance at every possible opportunity – just floaty, disorganised mindless dancing. Lots of people around my table too please.

RTÉ How to Cook Well with Rory O’Connell, series 6, Mondays, RTÉ One, 7.30pm

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How to Cook Well featured craftsperson

Fingal Ferguson knives, Gubbeen, Schull, Co Cork

In a little workshop in the middle of the farm behind the cheese dairy, Fingal makes a selection of cooking and chef’s knives. 

Growing up as the fifth generation on Gubbeen Farm, Fingal learned that for every job there was a knife, and a good, solid knife was always an essential tool. Visit fingalfergusonknives.com.