Makeup like a Pro

As we age, applying makeup becomes less a fun excuse to indulge our inner goddess and more a battle against the ravages of time. Around us, teenagers contour, highlight and bake with abandon, while we struggle with disappearing eyebrows, thinning lips, wrinkly eyes and the slow fading of that beautiful youthful glow we never fully appreciated at the time. 

But all is not lost. Makeup artist to the stars Christine Lucignano gives Carissa Casey a masterclass in how to make the most of older skin.

When it comes to makeup expertise, Christine Lucignano is without doubt one of the best in the business. Before returning to Ireland in the early noughties, she worked with Holywood royalty - Liz Taylor, Clint Eastwood, Paul Newman, Isabella Rosselini – and since her return, she’s become the go-to artiste for the likes of Amy Huberman and the Corrs. 

The other wonderful thing about Christine is that she’s 58, and doesn’t even look close. What’s the secret?

Skincare

“The challenge as we age is that the skin doesn’t act as it used to, it’s not as easy to please,” she says. “If you want it to be more like it was, you need first to invest in some good skincare. Genetics, diet and lifestyle have a massive part to play but can still slow down the hands of time by being dedicated to you skincare.”

She recommends protection (SPF every day), a good day and night time moisturiser to rehydrate the skin and regular exfoliation. “The world is your oyster now because there are so many products and at so many different price points. There’s really no reason for someone not to be able to get the best skin they can possibly have.”

Skincare brands such as CeraVe, The Ordinary and the Inkey List are all very good and very affordable. Irish brands such as Seavite, Pestle & Mortar and Skingredients are also excellent, she says.

Foundation

Foundation is one of three products, Christine says is worth spending a little extra money on (concealer and powder being the other two). “I think again, the industry has evolved and there are excellent foundations that don’t cos an arm and a leg,” she says. Her hero foundations at the moment are both at the pricier end of the market – 1 Chanel Sublimage (€130 at brownthomas.com) and 2 La Mer Fluid foundation (€105 at brownthomas.com). The more affordable Fenty’s Pro Filt’r foundation (€27.20 at boots.ie)  is also a good bet. 

Whatever foundation you chose, the best way to put it on according to Christine is with your fingertips. “I know it’s a messy job but skin to skin is the number one best way. It’s what I do. If it’s a matter that it’s a bit messy, invest in one of those stainless steel palettes or use a glass or marble coaster, apply a pump or two and pick it up with your fingers.” 

Brush technique, she says, is hard to get right and the makeup can look heavy or streaky. “It’s more a younger person’s thing. It was a marketing tool back in the day and it’s somehow just stuck.”

If you want to use a brush, go for a dense thick brush, but always perfect with either a damp beauty sponge or your fingers. For quick application of foundation, a damp beauty sponge is best. 

Contour

Good contour, explains Christine, create a shadows under the cheekbone or jawline so that these areas recede. It can be excellent for providing definition to an older face.

It is forever synonymous with the Kardashian sisters. “It was funny for me to see someone under the age of 40 taking contouring so seriously. The Kardashians were using something corrective before the issue was even there for them,” says Christine.

The key, she says, is to choose a cool toned product. “I don’t where it started that people use bronzer or warm toned product to contour.  A natural shadow has to lean cool and bronzer is warm.”

She recommends 3 Huda Beauty’s Tantour (€29.95 at boots.ie), 4 Trinny London’s Cheekbones (€30 at trinnylondon.com) and 5 Charlotte Tilbury’s Holywood Contour Wand (€35 at charlottetilbury.com). The wands and sticks available at Kim Kardashian’s KKW Beauty range are also good, she says. KKW Beauty is not available in Ireland but can be ordered from the US website (kkwbeauty.com).

She favours a damp cream contour rather than powder versions.

Concealer

“I feel sorry for concealer,” says Christine. “It’s got a lot of pressure. It’s like the eldest child, it has to be all things to all people.” We want concealer to plump skin that’s dehydrated, minimise wrinkles, take away any purple or discolouration. “And p.s. there’s a bag there,” she adds.

“I think you have to use a few different products. A colour correct or a brightening tool first, if that’s what you need.”

Concealer has to have a really good texture and slightly sink into the skin, not sit on the surface. “The technologies are there,” says Christine. “You don’t have to spend a fortune.”

Her recommendations are the 6 Dior Forever Skin Correct (€34.50 boots.ie). “It’s opaque and  it seems to have stretch, like when you put on a pair of jeans and there’s some lycra there. That’s what it’s like, it doesn’t sink in to the lines it moves.”

The Hourglass Vanish concealer (€37 from Arnotts.ie) and the 7 Nars Radiant creamy concealer (€31.50 from brownthomas.com). 8 Maybeline’s Instant Eye Eraser (a delightful €11.99 from boots.ie) also get the thumbs up.

Eyebrows

Like many of us Christine is familiar with the issue of disappearing eyebrows (the ones we plucked to oblivion in our 20s). She says it isn’t always necessary to tint a brow. “It doesn’t need to be intense. Use a couple of products. First you need to give the brow some density in a lighter shade. Then use a brow pencil to fill in the gaps with small strokes. “Starting with a dark shade is always a mistake and don’t just use one tone, it never looks good,” she says.

Her brow pencil heroes are Anastasia of Beverley Hills Perfect brow pencil (€28 at arnotts.ie), 9 Benefit’s Goof Proof brow pencil (€27.50 at meagherspharmacy.ie) and Urban Decay’s Brow Beater (€19.50 at arnotts.ie)

Lips

Almost all of us lose volume in our lips as we age. To create volume, start with the mouth closed, says Christine. Make sure the lips are hydrated and blot off any excess cream. “Use a lip liner very close to the lip shade, a nude pink. Create volume top and bottom only at the centre of the lips. If you add volume to the sides of the lips you’ll look like a clown.”

She recommends 10 Charlotte Tilbury’s Lip Cheat Supersize Me (€22 at charlottetilbury.com ) Veive Modern Lip Definer (€17.50 at vieve.co.uk) and Wet n Wild in 666 nude (€2 widely available but the 666 shade is hard to track down).

Highlighter

Christine recommends going for a highlighter with a pearly finish rather than one that’s too shimmery. These tend to be a bit pricier but look more realistic. Her top picks are Veive Nova Glow highlighter (€31 at vieve.co.uk ) and 11 Chanel La Beige Healthy Glow (€44 at brownthomas.com ).

Tools

A good mirror and light is a must. “Get a good mirror. Don’t be leaning on a little mirror. Daylight is the best of the best but, if that’s not possible, you can get one of those LED panel lights that suction to the bathroom wall and don’t put out a lot of heat,” she says. “When you’re making up in bad light, it’s easy to overdo or underdo something.”

A good lash curler is important as are a range of good brushes. “There are incredible Irish brushes on the market.” She loves Sarah Keary’s (various prices sarahkeary.ie), Aimee Connolly’s (various prices sculptedbyaimee.com) and Cica brushes (various prices cicabrushes.com)

Education

Because we’re all different, Christine suggests that a lesson with a pro makeup artist is an excellent investment. “You can watch YouTube videos all day long but you might not learn much. You need to know how to work with your own face.” A lesson can teach you how to make the most of your eyes, where and how to contour to best effect among and deal with any issues specific to you face.

Visit christinelucignano.com and follow Christine on Instagram @cloochy

Side Notes

Before applying any makeup it’s a good idea to prep your skin and that starts with making sure you are wearing a broad spectrum SPF. 12 Monat’s new Sun Veil 30 (€44 from monatglobal.com) contains plenty of hydration and nourishment for the skin as well as protecting it from damaging UVA/UVB rays. It’s lightweight, sinks easily into the skin and provides a good base for makeup application.

There’s a reason why Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic range has a cult following. For older, drier skin, the 13a Magic Cream (€63 from charlottetilbury.com) gives a wonderful glowy base for makeup. The 13b Magic Eye Rescue (€55 from charlottetilbury.com) makes short work of undereye woes, softening any fine lines and creating a lovely dewy texture for brightener and/or concealer.

Most older skin can do with a bit of a warm-up, particularly if you’re carefully applying your SPF. 14 Art Deco’s All Season Bronzer (€xx from xxxxxx) includes three colours in a calm matt finish which can be buffed around the cheekbones (not under, it’s not contour) and wherever you want to add a subtle glow. Use with a smidge of blush for extra glow.