The Royal Canal Experience

Exploring the 200 year old Royal Canal by pedal power is now possible with the opening of 130km of level towpath. Leon Ó Cathasaigh recommends a leisurely amble along the waterway soaking in the wildlife, beautiful scenery and enjoying quiet moments of enchantment.

I take something from every journey and call it a ‘moment away’. It’s like a small package of experience that becomes a cherished memory. Recently, my moment away was sipping iced tea by the Royal Canal somewhere between Kilcock and Enfield. On the far bank a heron quietly surveyed the water; it was so still I thought it might be a statue until it slowly repositioned its gaze. The canal was clear and splendid, with long grasses rampant along the margins and yellow-flowered lilies flourishing on the calm surface of the water. I savoured the feeling of satisfaction that comes with finding lovely locations that are hidden away. I was alone with my thoughts. My bicycle, resting bedside me, had brought me to this place. 

Canal cycling is popular throughout Europe where places like the Canal de Midi in Southern France attract thousands of visitors each year. We now have our own version as the Royal Canal Greenway spans five counties (Dublin, Kildare, Meath, Westmeath and Longford) and penetrates deep into the hidden heartlands of Ireland. If you wish to follow the entire 130km it will bring you from the docklands of Dublin to connect with the Shannon at Cloondara in County Longford. 

I would suggest Maynooth as an accessible starting point that avoids the city and opens the way for a countryside excursion. The harbour is a convenient hub with the train station nearby and good parking locations in the vicinity. Maynooth also has a good selection of food venues open throughout the day and, if you wish to stay on and dine there that evening. 

My day started with a pleasant coffee by the harbour where I met Dave who runs Royal Canal Bike Hire. His advice for those new to cycling? “Take it easy. Relax and enjoy the journey.” I would certainly agree, canal cycling is not a strenuous activity it has more to do with a steady pace and the quiet appreciation of the beauty of our natural surroundings. As we chatted there was a constant stream of walkers and cyclists setting out to head west along the greenway. 

There is something about cycling that brings out the child in all of us. It was wonderful to witness the excitement of a group of friends as they readied themselves for the trip. Shrieks of joy while practicing in the open area by the harbour and then cries of glee as they heading off tentatively down the path. Later as I passed them along the way, they were still laughing and chatting as they ambled along. The brightness of their mood was contagious and even the walkers out from the town were smiling and giving them the ‘thumbs up’.

Dave had outlined the sequence of landmarks along the greenway, ‘Kilcock is 6km away, beyond that is Ferran’s Lock and Old Town Woods. The full journey to Enfield is 20 km, where renters can drop off their bikes and get the train back, or choose to cycle back and return the bike to the harbour”. At his recommended easy pace, he suggests about 15km per hour,  it would take less than an hour and a half to get to Enfield, even while taking a few short stops along the way. 

That’s the thing about cycling, most people, especially when they are not used to it or have been off the bike for many years, try to rush along and soon tire from the effort. Whereas taking it at a snail’s pace and stopping frequently to take in the view, will give you the ability to whittle away the distance and enjoy the experience. A good indicator of the best pace is that you should be able to talk as you ride. And of course, as there are no cars to worry about, many travel in twos and chat away as they pedal. There’s a real sense of togetherness when you’re on the greenway, passers are always acknowledged with a friendly smile and it’s almost obligatory to agree on the niceness of the day, even if it rains!

Cycling on a greenway is a simple elegant activity that is available to almost everyone and does no harm to the environment. Imagine now you’re rolling along, not a care in the world, the only sounds are the steady rumble of the wheels, the quiet woosh of the breeze and the distant call of a bird. On either side of the path the summer wildflowers are in full bloom, and sheep and cattle graze obliviously in the open fields that surround you. 

The highlight of my trip was the section following Ferran’s Lock (about 4km beyond Kilcock) that brought me through Old Town Woods. The scenery was quite different there and I got the sense that the canal was more like a river with bends and overgrown trees on either side. The path twists and turns through the woodland conveying a feeling of mystery and timelessness. 

Several kilometres further along I eventually come to the bridge at Cloncurry where a short but steep ramp takes you over the road (you may need to dismount). I paused there awhile to survey the old cemetery and large mound opposite with a lonely tree atop. The structure, known as a Motte and Bailey, dates from the earliest Anglo-Norman era. 

Canal wildlife is never far away and several times I spotted herons on the banks. They are often slow to move and will only take to the air when you cycle right up to them. There are also kingfisher, swans, ducks, otters and foxes living and hunting along the canal. 

I made it to Enfield and then all the way back stopping for my ‘moment away’ on the return leg. Overall, the Royal Canal Greenway has so much to offer; it’s easy to get there and yet it is like a portal to another world, it’s a healthy active way to spend a few hours, it can be an adventure and an achievement and of course it will leave you with pleasant memories that will always be ‘only a moment away’.  For more on the Royal Canal Greenway visit waterwaysireland.org.

Cycling Practicalities

You can bring your own bike or rent a bike for the day

If you rent it is best to book in advance from royalcanalbikehire.ie

You can travel by train, the canal path is alongside the station at Maynooth

If you drive use the station car park or any of the paid car parks in Maynooth

The canal path flat and is suitable for all types of bike 

Bring a carry bag for extra clothing and snacks if you wish

Tip: dress in layers so you can add on or take off depending on the weather

Tip: bring some books to help identify the wildflowers and birds along the way

Places to eat 

Maynooth

Sasta by the River at Manor Mills Maynooth

Shoda Market Café, Glenroyal Hotel Maynooth

Willow and Wild, Court House Square, Maynooth

Kilcock

Black Forest Café, School Street, Kilcock

Timeless Café, Church Street, Kilcock

Enfield

The Koffee Well, Main Street, Enfield

Nomad Coffee Bar, Main Street, Enfield

Pic Credit: Leon Ó Cathasaigh, Royal Canal Bike Hire