The Beginners Guide to Retinol
The beauty industry has a serious case of hero-worship for retinol, an ingredient found in a host of skincare products on the market. But what’s all the fuss about? Rachel Spillane delves into what retinol does for our skin and why we should consider using it.
It can't only be me who is tempted when they read 'anti-ageing', 'reduces discolouration' or maybe best of all, 'prevents wrinkles' on the packaging of skin care products. The promise of looking eternally young with glass skin is one thing that can persuade me that I do need yet another serum to add to my arsenal - despite having several already. As I suffered from acne all through my teens, I was left with some scarring and discolouration. My hunt to find an at-home skincare solution to reduce my hyperpigmentation was becoming pretty desolate until I was gifted a product for
Christmas two years ago. My skincare saviour came in the shape of a little blue bottle - Sunday Riley’s Luna Sleeping Night Oil. It was the first retinol product I had tried so as always, (as everyone should before you put anything new on your skin) I did my research. Here’s what I learned…
WHAT IS RETINOL?
Retinol is a common type of retinoid, derived from vitamin A. It’s widely available in beauty products and as a less potent type of retinoid, it can be bought over the counter. Retinol can help with lots of different skin concerns like acne, ageing, hyperpigmentation and overall skin rejuvenation. According to a study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, the use of retinol was tested not only on crows feet but neck wrinkles on 152 subjects for eight weeks and the results showed a remarkable improvement with both signs of ageing. "Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient in skincare because it alters the behaviour of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner. It smooths and refines skin's texture, enhances skin radiance and treats ageing," says Amanda von dem Hagen, a licensed esthetician and international educator for Glo Skin Beauty.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Retinol, and retinoids, work by promoting cell turnover. Skin cells turn over and die rapidly, which then makes room for new cell growth, giving us more smooth and plump skin. It can also accelerate collagen production, which naturally declines as we age. Like with most skincare, it won't be an immediate fix. Most dermatologists say you will see improvements eight to 12 weeks with continued use. Consult your doctor before you start using retinol, especially if you have any skin concerns like sensitive skin, rosacea or severe acne.
WHAT ARE THE RISKS?
A lot of first-timers, including myself, suffer from slightly sensitive skin at the beginning. One of the main side effects of using retinol is sensitivity to UV sunlight so, you might experience some irritation and redness. Starting with a product that has a small concentrate of retinol like 0.3% will reduce the possibility of any side effects. You can start on a small percentage and increase as you go because your skin will naturally develop a tolerance. A top tip is to use retinol in the evenings or before you go to bed if your skin becomes sensitive to sunlight or if you prefer to use it in the mornings, apply suncream liberally.
L-R Kate Somerville +Retinol Vita C Power Serum Firming + Brightening Treatment €97, visit arnotts.ie, The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane €5.30, visit spacenk.com, Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil €114, visit revolve.com, Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Moisturiser €28.95, visit beautyshop.ie, Skin Formulas Vitamin A Restore Serum €50, visit theskinnerd.com , Dermalogica Retinol Clearing Oil €83, visit dermalogica.ie, Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinoid Night Oil €76, visit pestleandmortar.com, SKINICIAN Level 2 Ageless Overnight Retinol Power Balm €88.40, visit skinician.com, Pixi Retinol Tonic €20.50, visit lookfantastic.ie, La Roche- Posay Retinol B3 Serum €31.99, visit boots.ie
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