Bohemia Rhapsody
Prague and Pilsen are perfect for a city break, the markets may be closed but beer can do a lot to remedy the chaos of Covid.
Prague at sunrise
The Czech Republic has a string of measures to stem the spread of the Omicron variant of Covid-19.
For a place like Prague, which thrives on its tourism and night-time industries, these regulations have altered the very fabric of the city but thankfully, there is still plenty to do in the Czech Republic’s capital during the daytime. My personal highlight is Pragl, where classically-trained glassblower Dave Yule teaches me how to make my own glassware. Glassmaking was a big deal in Bohemia, the former name of the Czech Republic, and in typical Czech style, the workshop visit is complemented with a few glasses of local beer.
Speaking of beer, my next stop is a city every discerning lager-drinker will have heard of. About an hour and a half by car, Pilsen (Plzen) lies nestled in the heart of West Bohemia. Known throughout the world for its pilsner lager, this market town encircles the Pilsner Urquell brewery, established in 1842.
This is a brewery unlike any other, and with 80-minute tours starting from just 250 CZK (€10.27), a visit is an absolute must. Visitors find themselves taken through the incredible and unique story of pilsner, with the tour finishing in the caverns deep below the city, where I am able to sample the creamy beer for myself. It is served with a purposely large head to reduce the amount of CO2 that makes it into the beer. The Czechs call this effect ‘mliko’, meaning milky.
Indeed, while Pilsen is pretty from street-level, it is in the 13 kilometres of subterranean caverns that one discovers the real heart and soul of this city. For 150 CZK (€6.16), visitors can don a hard-hat and go beneath the surface to enjoy the Pilsen Historical Underground Tour. Setting off from beneath the Senk Na Parkanu pub – which serves a delicious spread of traditional Czech foods (mains from 195 CZK/ €8) – the tour winds through several floors of labyrinthine corridors beneath the streets. Originally constructed as cellars in which to store and move beer barrels, these hallways have since been cleaned, re-paved and transformed into a living museum.
Be warned – this experience is not for the claustrophobic, especially when the ceilings start to get very, very low.
VIBRANT PILSEN
Back above ground, I discovered that Pilsen, like Prague, has been badly affected by the new Covid regulations. The town square and market is far less animated than I expected to find it. Still, there is plenty to do besides the market. My first stop is to visit the Cathedral of St Bartholomew. This beautiful gothic church dominates Pilsen’s main square, which – despite the closure of the craft market – still manages to remain vibrant and animated. Entry is free, and I would urge any visitor to pay at least a quick visit to see the incredible vaulted ceilings, decorated with stunning paintings by Karl Jobst, painted 1883. Then, for 60 CZK (€2.46), visitors can also climb the 300-or-so steps to the top of the 103-metre high tower, from where they can gain an incredible view of the city.
As the evening draws in, I lament the fact Pilsen is nowhere near as vibrant as it could have been – still, I can’t help but suspect this gorgeous city will bounce back very healthily from the pandemic. With so much beauty and intrigue to be discovered, it’s little wonder this city was European Capital of Culture in 2015.
There’s just enough time on my trip to experience something quite novel. Pilsen is a rapidly-growing city, and in the emerging district of Pilsen 8, one finds Purkmistr, a restaurant and hotel with a very unique health club offering. After sampling a few of the delicious Czech beers they have on offer, I am ushered through to their beer spa, where I take a rejuvenating bath right there in the amber nectar (from 900 CZK/ €36.95). As I lie back, soaking up the warm beer, I start to fully appreciate how important this beverage has been to the history of the Czech Republic, and how creatively Purkmistr is able to honour the city’s most renowned product.
It is a dreadful shame that this new variant has led to tighter restrictions, but the Czechs are not alone.
My advice would be to put Prague and Pilsen on your to-do list now. By the time travel starts to regain its stride, you will find no place on earth more delighted to express itself through food, beer, history and everything else besides.
Visit czechtourism.com and visitpilsen.eu
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