Tropical Paradise
Carissa Casey took one for the team on a wellness break to Antigua. Sunshine, yoga, delicious healthy food, fabulous surroundings, turquoise waters - Carlisle Bay has it all and, not surprisingly, she came back with a renewed sense of vigour.
I didn’t actually time how long it took me from arriving in my room to diving into the sea at Carlisle Bay, but it was probably less than five minutes. The glass doors of my room opened directly on the white sand beach and the waves lapping gently, just a few feet away, whispered an invitation that my plane-stiff body just couldn’t ignore. Floating on my back on the salty (so very buoyant) water staring up at the azure sky, the eight hour flight was already a distant memory.
If you’ve ever done one of those guided meditations where you are asked to visualise yourself in a beautiful place, this is now mine. It was warm without being stifling, there were more palm trees than holiday makers on the beach and the mountains which envelop the bay are lush green rainforest. After stretching my aching limbs through the water I flopped on a sunbed (towels ready at a nearby table) and found myself mid-way through a gratitude practise without even trying.
Carlisle Bay Resort Hotel has that effect on people. It’s on the opposite side of the island to the VC Bird International Airport where you arrive and far awayfrom other developments; a veritable oasis of luxurious calm and beauty. Physically, Antigua is not unlike Ireland in that it’s centre is relatively flat and its coastline dotted with mountains. Locals boast that there are 365 beaches, one for every day of the year (a bit like how Clew Bay has 365 islands).
A tendency towards picturesque exaggeration is not all we Irish have in common with Antiguans. From the moment we’re picked up at the airport to the welcome party at the resort, we’re greeted with genuine smiles, authentic friendliness and pleasant efficiency. I can (and will) wax lyrical about the beauty of the island and the resort, but what set the whole experience apart for me, were the people we met. Every one of them was happy to help and loved to chat, qualities I like to think we Irish share But back to my impromptu gratitude practise on the beach. I was there to experience a wellness break and needed to get ready for the first yoga practise.
YOGA TIME
But back to my impromptu gratitude practise on the beach. I was there to experience a wellness break and needed to get ready for the first yoga practise
After dipping my sand-encrusted feet in the bougainvillea adorned water bowl on the terrace, I took one last look at the beach and headed for the shower. My room was large, with a huge bed that faced the sea. The décor was simple and tasteful, turquoise ornaments contrasting the clean white walls. The bathroom was similarly large with piles of fluffy white towels and an excellent overhead shower. There was also a well-stocked minibar (including the necessities to make a proper cup of tea).
The grounds of the resort are an homage to the spectacular native flora. Huge broadleaved tropical shrubs interwoven with soaring trees. The sound of bird song is inescapable. Tiny brightly coloured birds flit about constantly and can be heard from dawn to dusk, warbling from their perches.
Tucked away among the foliage, I found the yoga pavilion, a wooden structure with billowing white gauze curtains. Waiting for us was Dublin-born wellness guru Tara O’Rourke. Aside from being a yoga teacher, she has qualifications in coaching, homeopathy and skincare. I hadn’t done yoga in several years and was a bit anxious about how I’d cope with the poses. I didn’t need to worry. Tara took us through a gentle routine, specifically designed to help us ‘ground’ after the flight and ease residual body tension. The session ended with my a favourite yoga pose of all, shavasana, or corpse pose, which involves lying on the ground and doing nothing. Bliss!
I floated out of there and bumped straight into the resort manager Brian Murphy, yet another Irish person. (Carlisle Bay is owned by the Irish company Harcourt Developments). I was so zen-ed out after the yoga that I’m not sure I made much sense. Luckily, Brian joined the group for dinner that evening at the beachfront restaurant, one of several eateries at the resort.
That night, I opted for Jerk Chicken, a Caribbean tradition, but fish also featured widely in the menu, from prawns to MahiMahi, a meaty local fish. The food was delicious, accompanied by Ti Balth Rosé, branded by a French company especially for Antigua. Dinner was followed by a firepit ceremony and music by a local artist further along the beach. Unfortunately, tiredness got the better of me and I made my excuses. (Reports the next day were highly favourable.)
HIGH ENERGY MORNING
I surprised myself by sleeping well and there was something particularly lovely about waking up to the sound of waves lapping nearby. The first yoga session of the day was at 8am and since I was still (slightly) on Irish time that wasn’t a problem. This was a more energetic session but Tara tailored it to individual abilities. I found that despite the passing of years, my body remembered the poses and I wasn’t as terrible as I expected to be. I was feeling quite pleased with myself over the leisurely breakfast afterwards. Then it was off for a guided hike through the rainforest to the top of the mountain overlooking the resort.
Opinions at dinner varied as to how hard this trek was. I found it do-able at a slower pace than the rest of the group (who flew along!). The heat and the humidity made the going tough and some parts of the trek are pretty steep. But it wasn’t unpleasant. One of the guides stayed with me and we chatted about life on the island. It was his first day on the job (he had previously worked construction) and he lived not too far from the resort. Most of the islanders grew food for themselves on small plots, he told me. Water was an issue throughout the island and droughts were not uncommon. With plenty of distracting chit chat, we finally reached the top of Signal Hill and the view was spectacular. The resort nestled beneath us and the Caribbean sea stretched out to the horizon, with Montserrat just about visible in the distance. I was able to recover from all this exertion that afternoon with a pleasant nap on a shaded sunbed on the beach. That evening we practised meditation with Tara, including pranayama, a form of breath work which is soothing to both body and soul. And again I had a great night’s sleep, after a lovely nourishing dinner.
By day three on Antigua, I was beginning to feel like a native, as chilled and happy as I’d felt in a long while. Tara was keen to up the ante at the morning yoga and I felt more than able for it. In fact it felt really good to feel my body strong and flexible again.
I love swimming, particularly in warm seawater but I’ve never tried snorkelling.
A boat trip that afternoon offered the opportunity to snorkel on local reef. I didn’t think twice, dropping off the boat and managing the breathing attachment and flippers with little difficulty. I think it had something to do with how relaxed I felt. For those less confident about their swimming abilities, there was the option of a waist ring to help with floatation.
Afterwards we sat on deck and enjoyed a picnic prepared for us by the kitchen staff at Carlisle Bay. Sipping on Rosé, listening to the sea lapping the side of the boat, gazing at the empty beach nearby, heaven on earth.
We roared across the water back to Carlisle Bay (or home as I’d started to think of it), waving at the odd vessel we passed. Then it was time for my snooze on the beach, a habit I’d grown to love.
Our last day dawned and we had our final yoga class with Tara. Each of us felt we had progressed far more than we believed we could and there was an amazing sense of wellbeing among the group. We watched the head chef prepare our lunch in a cooking demonstration on the beach and I’m still tempted to have a go at making pasta after peppering him with questions on the subject.
For the final afternoon it was off to the resort’s spa for a facial. There’s a sauna and plunge pool by the relaxation room and lots of lovely healthy treats on offer. My facial included a lot of massage and, of course, I fell asleep for some of it. My face was glowing by the end. I was sad to say goodbye to all that luxurious loveliness but, if the truth of a wellness break is how you feel a few days later, then this one worked for me. Once I’d had a good night’s sleep and the jetlag had worn off, I was rarin’ to go, lots of fresh energy, and ideas flowing faster than a bottle of Antiguan Rosé.
Wellness breaks at Carlisle Bay Resort Hotel start in October of this year and run through to December. For more visit carlisle-bay.com
