Is niacinamide the new holy grail of skincare? Niamh O’Reilly digs deeper and finds out if it’s worth the hype

Niacinamide has been the ‘it word’ on the lips of skincare gurus over the last few months. But why should we be so excited about this so-called powerhouse skincare ingredient that’s been referred to by some in the know, as the crème de la crème of skincare?

Firstly, it's everywhere. Walk into any department store beauty section these days and you’ll find the shelves stacked with products listing niacinamide as either the main attraction or a top line ingredient. The trend towards the increasing cosmeceuticalisation of skincare shows no signs of abating and one look at the skincare shelves right now and you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve landed back in the world of the apothecarist; such is the propensity for products to be housed in glass vials, with droppers.

The sheer number of active ingredients and formulations can make you feel as though you’re ordering a mythical potion instead of a skincare product and while this has given consumers more choice and autonomy over what they add into their skincare routine, it has also lead some to feel a bit dazzled by science.

Thankfully, while some skincare ingredients can require a lot of homework, niacinamide is one we can all get behind. ‑ ink of it like the chocolate cake of the skincare world; a bit of a crowd pleaser everyone can enjoy, without being too complicated.

WHAT IS NIACINAMIDE?

So let’s get down to brass tacks, what exactly is this wonder ingredient? Simply put, it’s a form of Vitamin B3, also known as nicotinamide, which we can consume through our diet. It can be found in foods such as kale, eggs, beans and meat for example. It is essential for the skin and plays a role in reducing inflammation and addressing hyperpigmentation. Being a water soluble vitamin, however, it’s something we do not store in our bodies. Looking to topical formulations is a no-brainer.

“Not only does niacinamide help with pigmentation of the skin, but it also boosts hydration and protects the skin from environmental damage,” explains

Professor Niki Ralph, La Roche-Posay consultant dermatologist. “It increases the skin's ability to maintain hydration by strengthening the skin's barrier thus improving the skin's appearance and texture and can also help with regulation of sebum.” Interestingly, Professor Ralph points out that when niacinamide is taken orally, it has been shown to reduce the number of skin cancers in those who have significant UV damage and regularly form skin cancers.

WHO IS IT GOOD FOR?

It’s good for almost all skin types and a variety of concerns, showing very few incidences of irritation for those who suffer with sensitive skin or even have specific skin issues like rosacea, acne or hyperpigmentation. These are three very common skin concerns most of us can relate to, with one in 10 Irish adults suffering with the former and many of us reporting an increase in breakouts or mascne as a hangover from the pandemic.

Hyperpigmentation is essentially areas of uneven or discoloured skin, dark spots or age spots many of us see developing on our skin after the age of 40. “Hyperpigmentation occurs on the skin for a number of reasons,” explains Professor Ralph. “UV damage, skin ageing, staining post acne breakouts and hormonal changes” are just a few of the common culprits. It’s not just sun damage and age however, as pigmentation can occur after trauma to the skin such as breakouts, burns, shaving bumps or stings which is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. “Dark spots can also be a particular issue in darker skin types,” she says “due to the increased melanin production in this skin type.”

As a treatment for these skin issues, niacinamide appears to be a real catch-all game changer, because it has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, while restoring the skin barrier which can prevent water loss and for hyperpigmentation it blocks the transfer of melanin to the surface of the skin.

“It is also great for those with skin barrier dysfunction such as dermatitis,” says Ralph, “as it works to improve the skin barrier, resulting in more hydrated, glowing skin.” That all sounds like a pretty powerful combination that would be harsh on the skin, however by all accounts, niacinamide is a very stable ingredient meaning, those suffering with concerns like rosacea and acne, or sensitive skin can turn to products with niacinamide for help.

HELP FOR ROSACEA SUFFERERS

Rosacea is a common, chronic skin issue in Ireland, sometimes known as the “curse of the celts” as it disproportionately affects those with fair skin tones. Crucially rosacea is inflammatory and can be seen often as a redness of the skin across the cheeks, chin and forehead meaning it can be a sensitive issue for sufferers who can find their selfesteem taking a dent.

It most commonly occurs in adults aged 30-40 years and beyond and “the causes are multifactorial,” says Professor Ralph, “but there are certain triggers, some of which can be avoided such as UV exposure, hot beverages, spicy food, alcohol, heat and exercise. Those who suffer with rosacea also have a barrier dysfunction therefore moisturising with ingredients that soothe the skin are vital.”

“Niacinamide helps those with rosacea due to its anti-inflamatory properties reducing micro-inflammation and preventing post-inflamatory pigmentary changes of the skin.”

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO USE IT?

Niacinamide plays very well with others. “It can be added to any skincare routine and can be used morning and or evening. One cannot overuse niacinamide,” explains Professor Ralph, “so it can be added to a skin care routine which may contain other skin actives such Vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night.”

Good news for those of us who are looking to find room on our bathroom cabinet for a new hero. La Roche-Posay have just launched their own new product containing niacinamide, called Pure Niacinamide 10, with a potent 10 per cent formulation of the active ingredient, which aims to tackle hyperpigmentation and dark spots head on.

If skin ageing is a concern, and let’s face it, it is for most of us, then Professor Ralph suggests you can combine niacinamide with something like the more powerful active ingredient retinol and it will not only complement the regime, but it can even help your skin tolerate the harsher retinol better. “Niacinamide will boost the skin barrier function and reduce the dryness that retinoids may cause.”

For those with breakouts, she suggests using niacinamide alongside other products to tackle the post-inflammatory staining left from breakouts.

“If one is using prescription treatments for acne or rosacea these products should be applied first (after the skin has been cleansed) and then one can apply niacinamide after the prescription product has dried in.

7 to Try

On paper, it looks as though niacinamide could be worth the hype after all. If you’re keen to give it a try, here are 7 that fit the beauty bill.

1.The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum 30ml €10 ronaghanspharmacy.ie 2.La Roche-Posay Pure Niacinamide 10 €39 ie.feelunique.com 3.The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% €6.80 brownthomas.com 4.Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops 40ml €35 cultbeauty.com 5.Paula's Choice Clinical 20% Niacinamide Treatment 20ml €54 paulaschoice-eu.com 6.SkinCeuticals Discolouration Defense €95 millies.ie 7.Dr.Jart+ Cicapair™ Tiger Grass Colour Correcting Treatment 15ml €7 boots.ie