Beauty Faves
A sneak peek inside Norah Casey’s bathroom cabinet as she reveals the products she loves right now.
I’ve been publishing women’s magazines for 23 years now and there aren’t many brands or products I haven’t tried and tested over that time. I’ve also had the unique vantage point of being present at hundreds of skin care launches, hearing directly from the brand experts about the particular benefits of their new product. Over the decades trends and fads come and go with the breakthrough research from scientists at Manchester University around retinol probably being the biggest game changer (remember the queue for that Boots cream in 2009). It was labelled the first reliable clinical trial of a high street anti-ageing product and it showed that No7 Protect and Perfect did actually reduce wrinkles.
So in many ways I am ideally placed to separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to the beauty industry. But there are a few caveats. Like most of us, particularly those who are reaching a certain age, I am as susceptible as the next woman to marketing promises and boasts. I want that miracle cream that is going to banish my fine lines and wrinkles, visibly plum up my aging skin and give me that healthy youthful glow. I am far more likely to also buy serums and tonics that will reduce pigmentation, smooth out my pores, reduce those bags under my eyes and brighten my skin. Now I know in my heart and soul that many of the beautifully packaged creams and potions which claim they will do all this actually won’t.
I am much more a nerd than anything else so I will always delve into science. We (us women) wouldn’t dream of buying a food product that might irritate the eyes, damage our skin or that contain damaging toxins. Yet chances are we all have - particularly in lipsticks that are easily ingestible or powders that are absorbed into the skin. But we don’t apply those standards to skincare. The cosmetics industry is largely unregulated in the US and although stricter controls are in place in the EU it is subjected to nowhere near the rigour that other industries are controlled. This is especially true in claims that the product is ‘tested’ or ‘clinically proven’. So given that the ‘elephant in the room’ is that we all know this to be true, we so badly want to believe that the impossible might be possible when it comes to beauty products that we buy into the exaggerated claims.
But the positive news is that many reputable skin care brands are building evidence-based products which do make a difference. Most of the science happens in the formulations where different compositions, some taken from the pharmaceutical sector, help to penetrate the product deeper into the layers of the skin to get the desired effect. The skin is a really effective barrier, so beauty products have to work really hard to penetrate the surface to get to the layers where all the plumping and youthful glowing happens. Some changes are welcome and some not so welcome. Over the decades mineral oil (which clogged pores) has been removed but replaced by silicones which give that silky texture we love in serums - but serve no useful purpose.
We all want to buy stuff that will deliver results and the higher end and niche cosmeceuticals sector has responded. Clinical trials that prop up the marketing claims is a welcome trend and we are seeing new active ingredients from antioxidants to retinoid compounds that stave off aging. Many experts point to agents such as plant stem cells and anti-glycosylation being more prolific in our beauty products.
And there is a distinct shift towards eco-friendly ingredients (including recycled packaging) and more transparency in ingredients. While still overlayed with the glossy marketing language they are safer, which is the very least they should be, and often far better for our bodies.
So here I am with my own beauty faves against that background. I care about what I put on my face and body, so I have done the hard work over the years to identify what works for my skin at various points in my life and I would urge all women to do the same.
What are my skin problems?
I have been ill for the past few months and my skin has been on a tough journey through all of that. I lost weight very rapidly which led to some sagging around my jawline and cheeks. I have also been on very heavy medication for months, including lots of antibiotics and analgesics. My diet has been poor and I inject myself with insulin three or four times a day. So my beauty regime had to change dramatically. On the plus side being confined to hospital and home for much of that time meant I wasn’t wearing makeup which allowed my skin to breathe and heal.
Nyrah Beauty (nyrahbeauty.com)
I love the authenticity of the Nyrah Beauty origin story. As co-founder Rani Dabrai matured she was motivated to create a range of skincare products that blended the natural ingredients of nature with formulations that worked for aging skin. Nyrah has five ‘skincare heroes’ to hydrate, nourish and soothe the skin. I have all of them on my shelf right now but two that have been saviours these past months.
UNDRESS - Transforming Vitamin E Gel Cleanser €54.00
I experiment with lots of different cleansers depending on my skin condition but Undress has been my go to during hospital stays and long days indoors. It’s a light soothing cleanser which I gently massage into my skin in the morning, it smells divine and once I rinse it off my skin looks so much better. And it is still silky smooth. Sometimes cleansers leave my skin dry and tight and make me lunge for a serum. Nyrah also does a great serum called Glisten (a Superfood Sea Serum €78.00). I haven’t included it here but some days I will use that for extra hydration.
ELIXIR - Hyaluronic Acid Cooling Mist €34.00
I have many different types of facial mists on my shelf - a godsend on extra hot days for a little boost. But Elixir wins the top shelf spot because it really does what it says it will do. The mist spray is really fine and it’s cooling and hydrating. I use it often, during writing days and screen work and as a flash boost to my makeup on filming days.
Elemis (uk.elemis.com)
I was lucky enough to be on a cruise ship recently when Elemis did a private launch of the newly launched Pro-Collagen Morning Matrix and Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix. Now owned by the L'OCCITANE Group, Elemis has aromatherapy foundations and that is partly why I love using their products.
Pro-Collagen Morning Matrix, Performance Day Cream €160; Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix Wrinkle Smoothing Night Cream €190, visit brownthomas.com
The texture of the pro-collagen cream is bouncy, gloopy like a light custard and it soothes my skin. There is some science behind the matrix range (see the clinical trial result on the website) which is silicone free (a big plus) and developed to target the signs of ‘digital aging’. If like me you are exposed to blue light through excessive screen time on the phone and the mac then this is a welcome development. I religiously apply both the day and night time matrix creams and my skin looks far less stressed and smooth after using it continuously for 12 weeks. It’s expensive but you only use a pea sized amount to massage into the skin morning and evening so they will last.
Modern Botany (modernbotany.com)
This Schull based beauty business is creating new floral and herb based formulations inspired by the rich botanical heritage of the Wild Atlantic Way, in West Cork. The co-founders, Dr Simon Jackson and John Murray, are experienced beauty and wellness experts who work with local farmers to test herbs and crops. I really like the ethos of the brand, built on ‘ authenticity, transparency and sustainability”. Which is what we all want from our beauty products.
Modern Botany Cleansing Balm €45
This is the second cleanser on my shelf and I use it especially at night for makeup removal. Often during busy days I remove and reapply makeup if I have a daytime and evening work event. It feels really good on my skin and it especially calms down the redness which often happens with other cleansers. Co-founder Dr Jackson says he wanted to add some powerful botanical extracts… “ this is the first of our products to contain the root of the marshmallow plant, a fantastic ingredient known for its anti-inflammatory properties” It also contains foraged seaweed and horsetail extract. I really like the fact that the products are 100% plant-based and they smell wonderful.
Dermalogica (dermalogica.ie)
Biolumin-C Vitamin C Gel Moisturiser €69.00
This is one of my favourite skincare brands and I went to the launch of this product just as we were emerging from restrictions with a renewed interest in our skincare. This is a really nice moisturiser, especially for makeup free days - which I have had a lot of. It’s really light on the skin and hydrates without the greasiness which often sits on the surface of my skin and I think it has given my face a bit of a brightening boost. I often reapply a couple of times a day to help de-stress my skin.
Prisma Protect Spf30 Moisturiser €69.00
I use a lot of spf products all year around but this one I reserve for under my makeup to provide an added layer of defence. It has all the usual great ingredients to protect against UV rays and pollution but also claims to be activated by ‘visible light to help boost skin’s natural luminosity’. The reason it gets the top shelf spot is because it sinks into my skin really quickly and acts as a moisturiser - some spf products are runny and stay on the surface of my skin. It also adds a little pearlescent glow to my foundation.
Trish McEvoy (trishmcevoy.com)
Beauty entrepreneur Trish McEvoy is Dublin-born and has built her brand from her New York base. She started out as a makeup artist and her first breakthrough came in the ‘70s with her pioneering makeup brushes. She, along with her husband, renowned dermatologist Dr. Ronald Sherman, add a degree of authenticity to the brand.
Trish McEvoy Beauty Booster serum €86.00, visit selfridges.com
I like Trish McEvoy’s products and this serum is formulated with hyaluronic acid (30 percent) and antioxidants. The combination works really well on my skin and I use it for an instant hydration boost about 15 minutes before I put on my makeup. It tightens my skin and makes it a smoother canvas for the various layers of moisturiser and foundation. I have only been using it for a few weeks now but I like the way it feels on my skin and I think it is helping with those laughter lines!
Benefit (benefit.com)
Benefit The POREfessional Face Primer Minimising Pores €35.00, visit www.boots.ie
As my skin has aged, and especially in the last few months, my pores are much more noticeable and my skin tone can often appear uneven. I fell in love with the Benefit POREfessional Primer because it does everything I need. I smooth it on all over, including my eyelids. It matifies the skin creating an even plastering finish. Unlike other pore minimisers it doesnt start to peel off when I layer on foundation - it just glides on over it.
Benefit The Porefessional: Agent Zero Shine , visit cloud10beauty.com
This powder is a godsend for me because my skin tends to get oily on the T-zone and especially under hot studio lights. It’s light as a feather and a perfect handbag size - there is a little brush cleverly concealed. As well as matifying it also helps to keep my pores in check throughout the day. I use it with or without makeup.
Skinmade (myskinmade.com)
Skinmade is the world's first skincare brand to use artificial intelligence. Here’s the founder German-based Dr Lars Rüther with a better explanation: “Originally we were working with this technology in the Fraunhofer-Institute in Germany, when we realised the potential to use this intelligence for personalised skincare.
“Today we are absolutely at the forefront of this capability within the worldwide skincare industry”.
Skinmade Problem Solver Serums €65 each, visit akina.ie
These great problem solver serums were launched in Ireland by Akina Beauty founder Eavanna Breen. My skin has been on a bit of a journey with me as I recover so I switch serums depending on what is causing problems at that time. Each serum tackles a particular issue including wrinkles, blemishes and acne, redness and irritation and pigmentation. The ingredients are founded on science and are fragrance-free.
La Roche-Posay
My mum’s favourite brand and she looks amazing for 91 years of age. Naturally I am keen to enjoy the same genetic advantage and follow in her footsteps. As my skin was lacklustre and dull due to all those pharmaceuticals and temperature spikes these two products are new to my shelf. I attended the launch and was impressed by the claims (backed by a clinical trial) to boost radiance and help with texture and tone. Tailor-made for me.
La Roche-Posay Pure Niacinamide 10 Serum €39.00, visit mccabespharmacy.com
La Roche-Posay’s first 10 percent niacinamide concentrate caused a bit of a stir in the beauty industry. Designed to be a multi-tasker solution to uneven skin tone and dark spots while repairing and brightening the skin. I used it consistently during my own mini-lockdown after surgery and I really liked the effect - unlike some serums, it moisturises and, whether it was the benefits of makeup free days, I definitely saw an improvement to my skin. There is a mild exfoliant ( five percent hepes) which also has a brightening effect.
La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C 10 Serum 30ml €30.40, visit boots.ie
While I was pumping my body with lots of vitamins I was also drawn to this serum because unlike many other products it is formulated with an active dose of 10 percent Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid). This is a tried and tested anti-aging ingredient but it must be at a high enough dose to be effective. It is also lovely on the skin.
Nivea (nivea.com)
This is a brand that has been about forever, it was founded on March 28 1882. I think it was almost certainly one of my first beauty buys (that and Ponds cream). I have faith in a brand that has survived the test of time.
Nivea Uv Face Q10 Anti-Age Sun Cream Spf 50 €29.90, visit mccabespharmacy.com
At this time of year I don't go out without an Spf 50 face cream. I have a plethora of sun protection products on the beauty shelf but I reach for the Q10 more often than not because it is immediately effective, I am always rushing, and it makes my skin feel ‘dressed’ - smoother and a bit lighter. This is a great everyday sun protection cream that feels like a moisturiser - I use it for my daily walks and add another layer if I am applying makeup later in the day.