Land of Lakes and Palaces
It’s not often you get to stay in a room fit for a queen, to gate-crash the most opulent of Indian weddings at a royal palace while following in James Bond’s footsteps on Udaipur’s cobbled streets and stunning lakes. Norah Casey uncovers the magic of Rajasthan.
Lake Pichola
It was an oppressive 43 degrees and the streets of Delhi were choked with rush hour traffic and a dusky haze. I almost missed my flight to Udaipur amid the chaos and long queues at the domestic terminal. In less than two hours, however, I was transported to a land of lakes and palaces. The air was fresher, the roads less crowded, the people more relaxed. I was now in beautiful Rajasthan. The regal palaces and forts of Udaipur are the perfect backdrop to the sparkling lakes and richness of the colours and artistry of the city
Fit for a Queen
We ventured upwards in the darkness to the Aravalli Hills above Fateh Sagar lake to LaLiT Laxmi Vilas Palace, my home for the next few days. The hotel, built by Maharana Fateh Singh of the Mewar dynasty, features the original suites of the royal family. While the Maharana Suite with stunning views of the hills and lakes has its own private courtyard and exquisite hand-painted gold leaf work, I was staying in the equally opulent Maharani Suite. Beautiful Rajasthani art and original antique furnishing shared space with contemporary digital living in these well-appointed royal quarters with a grand master bedroom, dining and living rooms and a separate walk-in wardrobe. As I slipped under the crisp Bombay bed linen I could well imagine life as a queen in this magical heritage palace. Over the next few days the nightly al fresco feast and traditional Indian dancers and musicians fed and entertained me in royal style at Aangan, the garden restaurant, while the banquet in the more formal dining room, Padmini, (and especially the chefs) introduced me to so many dishes I had never tried before. One very hot afternoon I sipped a glass of chilled white wine on the front lawn with views over the lake, Nehru Island and the distinctive and world-famous Udaipur Solar Observatory. The staff stood in the hotel doorway wondering what madness would persuade anyone to sit in 40 degrees in the hot sun rather than the welcome cool of the air conditioning. When the waitress finally approached me to ask me why I would rather not be indoors, I said I’m stocking up on the sun before I return to Ireland. She smiled knowingly. thelalit.com
Venice of the East
The first morning I set out on a long day with a great guide Abhimanyu who, along with our driver Ashok, was a constant companion during my time in Rajasthan. Often named Venice of the East, the city also lays claim to being the most romantic city in India with the perfect symphony of majestic palaces and beautiful lakes. They are all human made but even so they are wonderful and such a welcome relief from the oppressive heat and congestion of the city.
I loved Udaipur, the winding colourful streets, lots of interesting galleries and artisan shops. Abhimanyu took me to amazing lakeside and rooftop restaurants and helped me navigate the purchase of silk and cashmere gifts (really reasonably priced and totally unlike the hassle and hustle of buying anything in Delhi). Over lunch and dinners, I enjoyed my first thali of regional food, bati–dal and lal maas and my first taste of Indian wine.
The local fruit and vegetable market was such a lovely place to pause a far cry from the crowded bustle of old town Delhi. It was here I tried my first (of many) masala tea. It tasted a bit like Bailys with cardamom.
City Palace Udaipur
Our first sightseeing stop was the largest and most stunning royal residence, City Place, nestled on the shores of Lake Pichola. In the morning, Abhimanyu stopped me on the walk up to the main entrance with great excitement and warnings to be quiet. There below us appeared the current Maharana of Udaipur, Shreeji Arvind Singh Mewar and his family. Once India became a democracy, the descendants of the Royal Family found entrepreneurial ways to give people a taste of the royal life through their commercial properties. As we arrived inside the main gate we were met with a café, run by the princess, and the craft shop next to it with magnificent silk pashminas run by a sister in law. The family runs a hotel group which encompasses two Grand Heritage Palace hotels within the palace complex Fateh Prakash Palace and Shiv Niwas Palace as well as the Jag Mandir Island Palace which I visited the following day.
The entire history and architectural influences of Udaipur can be found in the various rooms, paintings and courtyards of City Palace, which is Rajasthan's largest and most opulent palace complex. Here you will find the diverse architectural partnership of Rajasthani, Mughal, Medieval, European and Oriental influences which blend into a beautiful showcase of Rajasthan’s royal heritage. On the walls are glimpses of other eras, battles fought and lost, elephant hunts, musical interludes. It is both lovely and surprising to be transported at the turn of a corner or a step into a room to the life and times of its creation.
A license to thrill
I headed out alone by boat on Lake Pichola from the City Palace to visit Jag Mandir Island, where a beautiful palace awaited for morning coffee. Better still, it was being prepared for a lavish wedding later that day. I didn’t quite gate-crash the wedding but it was pretty special to get a birds-eye view of the opulent transformation that was taking place for the three-day ceremony and party.
Lake Pichola was created back in 1362 and is the oldest and one of the largest lakes in the city. Along the way we circled the famous Taj Lake Palace which appeared to float on the tranquil waters. Built to face the rising sun this iconic Lake Palace is now a jewel in the crown of the Taj group. Its royal heritage dates back to 1754 when it was commissioned by Maharana Jagat Singh II, ruler of the Rajputana empire, as a Royal Summer Palace. In 1960 it was converted into a luxury hotel privately owned by Maharana Bhagwant Singh. Now it draws international travellers who can afford to live like a king at this glamourous hotel. No wonder it was the setting for the Bond movie Octopussy but although the interior was used for the filming the rather more dramatic elephant flanked exterior of my destination was used for the outside shots.
Jag Minder Palace
Jag Minder Palace was a pretty regal experience despite the fact that the whole island was in a pre-wedding frenzy which involved piles of bright gold leaf and sparkling arches amid the beautiful gardens of roses, palm trees, jasmine and frangipani trees. The lush lawns were festooned with partially unwrapped white leather sofas and dining tables and various magnificent stages were being erected in the glare of the morning sunshine. Occasionally some music would blare out from the sound system causing the birds to take flight.
Built in early 17th century, and despite the surrealness of the contemporary wedding make-over, the stunning three storied Jag Mandir Palace of yellow sandstone and marble, has significant historical relevance. It was built by Maharana Karan Singh as a refuge for the young Prince Khurram, who later became Emperor Shah Jahan, creator of one of the most stunning architectural wonders of the world. Some of his early inspiration for the Taj Mahal happened during his stay at this beautiful island palace.
The Women’s garden
In the afternoon we took a welcome break in the lush green shadows of the Saheliyon-ki-Bari otherwise known as the women’s garden on the banks of Fateh Sagar Lake. This lovely little oasis was built for the queen and her maidens who would while away the time in the cool shade of the trees while strolling around the marble elephant fountains and lotus pool. The gardens, designed by the king himself and built for the royal entourage between 1710 to 1734 are now kept by only women gardeners.
Good to Know
I would highly recommend my Guide Abhimanyu Singh Deora +919928689999. I stayed at The LaLiT Laxmi Vilas Palace in Udaipur, visit thelalit.com
Follow us on Instagram
