Retinol: we ask the expert

What is the difference between retinol and reitinoids?
“Retinoids" 'is an umbrella term given to ingredients that are vitamin A derivatives, including Retinol and Granactive Retinoids. Retinol and Granactive Retinoid differ in their chemical composition and structure. When topically applied, enzymes within the skin convert Retinol to Retinaldehyde, which is then further converted to Retinoic acid. The ultimate desired goal when using Retinoids is to attain Retinoic Acid in the skin as it is the biologically active form with the capacity to target signs of aging and textural irregularities. Being an all-trans ester of retinoic acid, Granactive Retinoid (a solubilized system of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) does not undergo a conversion process and is able to directly bind to retinoic acid receptors.

What does retinol do?

Retinol is a well-studied ingredient that supports enhanced exfoliation, revealing smooth and radiant skin beneath. Alongside targeting the appearance of signs of aging (including fine lines and wrinkles) and textural irregularities, Retinol has also been shown to support collagen production in the skin. 

What misconceptions are there about using retinol?

The biggest misconception about Retinol is that it will thin out the skin. During the first few weeks of using Retinol, the skin may undergo peeling. However, as you continue to use Retinol over a longer period of time, the skin's tolerance adjusts to its potency. This eventually leads to an overall thicker epidermal layer as well as the skin being able to reap the benefits of Retinol. Once adjusted, the skin will be able to reap the benefits of retinol without a decrease in epidermal thickness, as concluded by multiple studies.

Should it be used only once a day?

Yes, we recommend to apply Retinol in the evening as part of your skincare regimen. In addition, we do not recommend incorporating more than one retinoid formula in a single regimen.

When should we start using retinol?

Retinol is suitable to use when looking to target textural irregularities and signs of aging, including fine lines and wrinkles.

Should it be used in conjunction with a SPF?

Sun protection is particularly important when using retinoids as they have the potential to increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation. As such, we recommend application in the evening, avoiding unprotected solar exposure and applying sun protection when using retinol.

How slowly should we start in terms of percentage?

The Retinoids category from The Ordinary offers Retinol at concentrations of 0.2%, 0.5% and 1%. We recommend beginning with the lowest concentration, then adjust to higher concentrations as the skin builds up tolerance to higher strengths.

How much is a recommended amount to use?

Apply a small amount (2-3 drops) to the face every evening.

Can it be mixed with acids?

The eventual outcomes of using Retinol or acids are the same. During the use of Retinol, the skin will undergo exfoliation. If an acid were to be incorporated, there is a higher potential of  over-exfoliating the skin. As a result, we do not recommend combining acids with Retinol in a single regimen. If you wish to take advantage of both product categories, we recommend applying them on alternate nights.

Will it irritate skin?

Retinol has the potential to cause irritation, redness and peeling, especially around the eyes and mouth, in the early stages of application while skin builds tolerance. For this reason, we always recommend to begin at the lowest concentration of Retinol first, then adjusting to higher strengths. If persistent irritation occurs, cease use and consult a physician. Use only as directed on unbroken skin. Patch testing prior to use is advised.

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