Chef, restaurateur and author, JP McMahon is one of most entrepreneurial food leaders in Ireland. started working in kitchens at age 15 and studied English and Art history in UCC. Having opened three of Galway’s finest restaurants with his wife Drigín Gaffey, Cava Bodega, Tartare Café, and the Michelin star Aniar, he also founded innovative chef symposium, Food On The Edge. A strong advocate for seasonal produce and local food, JP has led the way in sustainability and the reduction of food waste. His restaurants form part of his EatGalway Restaurant Group and is currently doing a PhD on food in 20th century Irish drama.

For more on all three restaurants, the cookery school and bookings, visit eatgalway.ie.

Food On The Edge

As well as being the founding chair and director of the Galway Food Festival, JP recently launched this year’s Food On The Edge, which he founded, and for the first time it is moving from Galway to Airfield Estate, Dundrum in Dublin on October 18 and 19. The event will be a mix of a blended symposium with a mix of in-person speakers and others joining virtually – Mark Best star of Netflix, ‘Chef’s Table’ will be returning.

The theme of this year’s symposium he says is ‘Social Gastronomy’. “The theme is very important this year as the industry has evolved throughout the pandemic and I hope we’ll see lasting change”, JP explains.

“Social Gastronomy is a term that encapsulates caring for food in a more holistic and total manner” he says, while aiming “to create a more equitable food culture, and a more inclusive society using food as an essential tool to build a better ecology and safer environment for all of humanity to thrive”. For more and to book tickets visit foodontheedge.ie

Crab with Smoked Cheese Custard

Serves 4

Ingredients:

250 g crabmeat

extra virgin rapeseed oil

zest and juice of 1 lemon

sea salt

For the cheese custard

150 ml double cream

150 ml milk

100 g Irish smoked cheese, grated

4 egg yolks

chopped chives and seaweed powder, to garnish (optional)

Method:

To make the custard, add the cream, milk and cheese to a medium pan over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, bring a separate medium pan of water to the boil.
Add the egg yolks to a large heatproof bowl and gradually pour the hot cream mixture over the eggs, whisking all the time to avoid scrambling.
Place the bowl over the pan of simmering water and cook for about 20 minutes until the custard thickens. Transfer to a blender and blend until smooth.
Season to taste.
Pick through the crabmeat for shell and season with the oil, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt.
Place the crab in the bottom of four bowls and pour the custard over the top.
Refrigerate for 2 hours until set.
Serve garnished with chopped chives and seaweed powder, if you wish.

Razor Clams with Cider and Rosemary

As well as working with cider and woody herbs, razor clams pair nicely with most seaweeds and sea vegetables. Pepper dulse seaweed is a beautiful accompaniment to this recipe. I also love to serve them with gooseberries in the late summer.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

250 ml cider

1 shallot, chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

4 sprigs of rosemary

500 g/ razor clams

sea salt

chopped chives, to garnish

Put the cider, shallot, garlic, and

rosemary into a large pan and bring

to the boil. Add the razor clams

and cover.

Steam for 1 minute, or until all

the clams open. Season and serve

garnished with chives.

All recipes from The Irish Cookbook by JP McMahon (Phaidon 2020). Images by Anita Murphy (Ginger & Sage).

Seafood Recipes

Crab with Smoked Cheese Custard

Razor Clams with Cider and Rosemary